Nestled in the heart of Western Australia’s Kimberley region lies a natural wonder that promises breathtaking landscapes and a journey through history: Purnululu National Park. This UNESCO World Heritage site is renowned for its iconic beehive-shaped sandstone formations, known as the Bungle Bungle Range, which date back over 350 million years.
Purnululu National Park holds significant cultural importance to the traditional custodians of the land, the Kija and Jaru peoples. The park’s rugged terrain and striking formations have served as a vital resource and spiritual sanctuary for thousands of years, evident in the ancient rock art and archaeological sites scattered throughout the area. Exploring gave us a chance to marvel at natural beauty but also an opportunity to learn about and respect the rich cultural heritage of its indigenous inhabitants.
Road Conditions and Accessibility:
Access to the park is primarily via the Spring Creek Track, which is accessible by high clearance 4WD vehicles only. Single axle caravans and camper trailers only. Dual axle caravans are not permitted!
We had heard so much about this 53km track leading from the highway ‘as the worst in Australia’. While corrugated in parts, requiring between 20-30 water crossing and many twists and turns, the track can be completed in about 2 hours. For us, the hardest part was not being able to get any driving flow with the constant braking for the ‘dips; and then accelerating up inclines out of water crossings.
The track certainly did not live up to its name as the worst road in Australia. We hesitated and deliberated a long while if we should take our van or not, and decided in the end we would. We had no trouble and took the journey slowly and drove to the conditions. It is busy at times so there is the need to pull over and allow others to pass.
Given the time it takes to get into the park, ensure you have adequate supplies, including water and fuel, as services are limited in this remote region. It is advisable to check road conditions and weather forecasts before setting out to ensure a safe and enjoyable trip.
Pop into the visitor information centre too as you enter the park. You will be required to buy Western Australia Parks Pass or have your annual pass sighted. There is free Wi-Fi at the visitor centre and surprisingly OPTUS had intermittent service throughout the park too.
Fuel:
The closest fuel is at Halls Creek if you are coming from the south or at Warmun from the north, so come with full tanks as full as possible and jerry’s if you can.
To get in and out of the park, plus visit the northern and southern attractions you will be driving upward of 200km.
When to visit Purnululu National Park:
The dry season is the best time to go, between May and September. Ensure you check the national park website for park alerts before you head in.
Where to Stay in Purnululu National Park:
When planning a visit to Purnululu National Park, accommodation options vary depending on you set up. The good thing is there are several choices that cater to different preferences, set-ups and budgets:
Camping:
Walardi Campground: Walardi Campground is situated within the national park on the southern end. It is 12km from the visitor centre. It provides basic facilities such as drop toilets bore water (boil before drinking) and picnic tables. There are 37 sites that are available to the public.
If you want to camp at Walardi you must book on the Western Australian Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions (DBCA). You don’t book a specific site, so book online and find a site that suits your needs when you arrive. We stayed on site 32 and found this perfect for our van.
Kurrajong Campground: Another campground within the park, Kurrajong offers similar facilities to Walardi and is an excellent choice for campers. There are approximately 100 spots and is 8km from the visitor centre.
Spring Creek and Leycesters Rest Area: Both are great options if you plan to spend the day in the park. They are situated no more than 5 minutes from the park turnoff and will allow you the option to explore the park over a full day. We stayed at Spring Creek the night before heading into the park and it was busy. Be prepared to be cramped, but from all reports it is a safe place to leave your van for a day trip with plenty of people around. You could also leave your van here and head into the park with a tent or swag set up.
Other Accomodation Options:
Glamping and Lodges
- Bungle Bungle Savannah Lodge: Located just outside the park boundary, not too far from Walardi campground, this lodge offers comfortable ‘glamping’ style accommodation with ensuite facilities. It’s a great option for those who want to spend additional time in the park but have a dual axel van.
Private Tours and Accommodation:
- Tour operators such as APT offer guided tours that include overnight stays in tented camps or eco-lodges within or near Purnululu National Park. These tours often provide all-inclusive packages with meals and activities, making them a convenient option for some.
Booking in Advance: Accommodation in and around Purnululu National Park can book out quickly, especially during peak seasons (May to September). We managed to grab the last site in Walardi when booking 2 days before hand.
What to do in the park:
This NP is a hiker’s dream. What you can see in the park is dependent on what time you have. Below is a list of walks and sites to see and at the end we will give suggested itineraries.
The NP can be split up into two sections. The south and the north, with park entrance and the visitors information centre in the middle.
Southern Park Walks:
1. The Domes Circuit. Grade 3, 700m Loop.
Embark on the iconic Bungle Bungles Circuit to witness the famed sandstone domes up close. I’d consider this walk the easiest in the park. You do walk on uneven surfaces, but it is relatively flat. The walk offers views of the beehive-like structures that give the park its distinctive appearance.
2. Cathedral Gorge Walk. Grade 4, 2km return.
Immerse yourself in the natural amphitheatre of Cathedral Gorge. Take the trail on from the Domes Circuit, through a dry creek bed and take in the natural surrounds and beauty. We had a snack here and the kids enjoyed singing and the echoing off the walls. They say it is a grade 4, with a ladder and narrow sections, but this walk is very doable with small children.
3. Piccaninny Creek Lookout. Grade 3, 2.8km return.
This trail is sun exposed with no real way to shelter from the heat. Make sure you are prepared with sunscreen, hats and plenty of water. You make your way further up the creek bed and to a lookout which has views over the Picaninny creek towards the Ord River, bee-hive domes and the Dixon Ranges.
4. The Window. Class 4, 6km return.
Once you arrive, you are met with a natural window in a sandstone structure. Remember that nature is fragile so do not climb on the structure.
5. Whip Snake Gorge. Grade 4, 10km return.
Continue past ‘The Window’ lookout where the trail veers left. Here you will find a gorge and a small natural amphitheatre which contains a huge amount of flora including rock figs, gums, ferns and mosses.
Helpful Tip:
When we went into Purnululu National Park we were not aware that you could join several walks together as all the southern walks start from the Piccaninny carpark.
You can join walks 1, 2 and 3 together to create a 5.5km walk which will take about 2 ½ hours to complete. Alternatively, if you are looking to complete all the walks it’s a 14km long walk and rangers suggest at least 6 hours to complete. They recommend starting as the sun is rising to see the colours of the morning light on the domes and to beat the heat on the exposed trails. Head straight to Piccaninny lookout and onto Whip Snake before coming back to Cathedral Gorge and the Domes Circuit.
Northern Park Walks:
1. Echidna Chasm Trail including Osmand Lookout. Grade 4, 2km return (plus 1km return for Osmand lookout).
Take on the Echidna Chasm Trail, known for its narrow, towering walls that form a cool and shady oasis. The trail winds through a narrow gorge with walls reaching up to 200 meters high, creating a dramatic and unforgettable experience. The boys loved this walk as they got to clamber over some boulders. If you time it right between about 11am and midday the sun is directly overhead and the rocks glow red for a brief period. Unfortunately, due to a rockfall part of the track is closed off. The Osmand trail is an easy detour which takes you up to a lookout over the Osmand Ranges – do this on the way back.
2. Mini Palms Walk. Grade 4, 4.4km return.
This was an underrated favourite of ours. The walk in is fabulous. The first 1km is quite flat and follows the Escarpment Walk before turning off as you walk up a riverbed, over, under or squeeze between boulders, up several ladders to the lookout. Explore the Mini Palms Walk to marvel at ancient Livistona Fan Palms nestled within narrow gorges. This short walk offers a unique opportunity to witness the lush greenery contrasting with the rugged landscape of the park and its breathtaking!
3. Stonehenge. Grade 2, 520m return.
A short and leisurely walk which has signboard explaining the Aboriginal use of trees, shrubs and grasses. Don’t go expecting a replica of Stonhenge in the UK.
4. Bloodwood Lookout. Grade 3, 500m return.
This is just off the carpark and the Bloodwoods. It offers up a view of the northern escarpment of the Bungle Bungle Ranges and is a good one to tack onto the end of one of the other northern walks.
5. Homestead Valley. Grade 3, 4.4km return.
The trail is exposed to the sun through open woodlands and cuts deep into the range. The trail ends at a rest area with views over Homestead Valley
Sunset Lookouts:
Walardi Sunset Lookout was completely overrated. If you have one night in the park, we highly recommend checking out Kungkalanyai lookout. The epic views are 360 degrees and you’re rewarded with both a sunset and the changing colours on the Bungle Bungle Ranges. We would suggest heading up with a cold one an hour before to really enjoy the epic transformation.
Suggested Itinerary – 1 Day
Day 1:
We suggest staying at the free camp at the turnoff to the park to be as close as possible. Rise with the sun and hit the road.
Head to the Southern part of the park first.
You know your family best and what amount of hiking they will be able to do in a day. We’d suggest completing at least Cathedral Gorge and the Domes Circuit and adding in Piccaninny Creek Lookout if you can – 5km all up.
Head to the northern end of the park (about 50km). Depending on time, stop and have lunch at one of the shaded picnic tables at the Echidna Chasm car park before undertaking the walk, if time allows add in the Osmand Lookout before you depart.
On your way out of the park take a stroll up Kungkalanayi lookout. Make sure you allow yourself at least 2 hours to get out of the park before dark.
Suggested Itinerary – 2 Days.
Day 1:
We suggest staying at the free camp at the turnoff to the park to be as close as possible. Rise with the sun and hit the road.
Head to the Southern part of the park first.
Complete the 5km return walk to the Piccaninny Creek Lookout and take in Cathedral Gorge and the Domes Circuit on the way back.
If budget allows head to Bellburn Airstrip and take a helicopter flight which offers a bird’s-eye view of the Bungle Bungle Range, allowing families to appreciate the scale and beauty of this natural wonder from above. We blew the budget and did the 18-minute Dome Flight and thought it was magical.
Make your way to Kungkalanayi lookout for sunset. We would suggest being there an hour before to really enjoy the changing colours. Take a beverage and a picnic blanket and settle in. The 360-degree views are something special.
Day 2:
Head north to Mini Palms, start your day with the 4.4km return walk before heading over to Echidna Chasm for the midday sun beaming into the chasm walls. Enjoy lunch in the shade before making your way out of the park.
If you were staying a second night, I would add in an afternoon exploring the Homestead Valley Trail before retreating back to camp.
Remember:
- Safety: Always carry plenty of water, wear sturdy footwear, drive to the conditions and ensure you have enough fuel.
- Respect: Follow designated trails to protect fragile ecosystems and respect Indigenous heritage sites.
- Timing: Plan your hikes early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the heat or know which hikes will offer you shade.